The Five Alls, Filkins, the Cotswolds: hotel review

A pub with rooms that is still a proper boozer but also serves great food is excellent news. It would be even better news if it paid as much attention to the comfort of overnight guests

Pubs with rooms open so fast I can’t keep up. If they’re not changing hands, they are being titivated. In the Cotswolds alone, I could spend a month going from pub to pub in a sort of glorified lock-in. I like the unusual name of this pub in the village of Filkins (once home to Labour politician Sir Stafford Cripps). It’s a traditional inn name, referring to the monarch (who rules all), the lawyer (pleads for all), the priest (prays for all), the soldier (fights for all) and the peasant (works for all).

Lana and Sebastian Snow used to run a restaurant in Hammersmith, west London. They came here in 2012 and observed the golden rule of taking over a village pub: however marvellous your food, keep the boozer intact. Tonight, elbows rest on the bar, Brakspear’s ales are slipping down and Lana a welcoming livewire seems to know everyone coming through the door.

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